tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8556824661731667172024-03-21T11:16:33.325-04:00One Guy's Slide-In Truck Camper ProjectDesign and Construction of a Custom Built Slide-In Cabover Truck CamperUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger55125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-58029428235682921112016-02-18T02:54:00.005-05:002022-01-20T00:13:35.543-05:00Camper ventilation fan - 4" day/night solar charged, battery operated<p>Well, I broke out the wallet, <i>again</i>. After extensive searching and not being happy results, altering my search strategy worked. I
found the golden nuggets and to be quite honest I'm not 100% certain how I
even ended up there. The nuggets are ventilation fans made for yachts, large cabin laden boats and smaller airplanes.<br />
<br />
By the way, there are lots of other nifty inventions made for watercraft and airplanes, seemingly none of which have made there way over into the campern arena. Why this is I haven't a clue, maybe we aren't as cool as our plane flying hermanos. I cannot understand why some of this stuff hasn't because it would carry us over into awesomeness.<br />
<br />A low profile, 4" day/night solar-charged, battery-operated ventilator made by Nicro. I found it over at <a href="http://wingsandwheels.com/">WingsAndWheels.com.</a> <br />
</p><h1 class="ty-product-block-title">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://wingsandwheels.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=vent" target="_blank">4" Day/Night Plus Vent White N20704W</a> </span></span></h1><p>What low profile meant to me was, not having to be concerned with unsightlies on my roof top. Why would I even care, considering I'm already toting around a behemoth in the bed of my pickup. Strange perspective. That alone already puts me in a league of my own anyway. Don't believe me, some ridiculous driver yelled at me once, "Get out of the road old man!" as he became highly perturbed with waiting behind me for a few seconds at a parking lot exit to await a mad rush of vehicles. We all know toting these behomoths does change some things but obviously there are those which don't. <br /></p><p>All jokes aside, just soak in a good view of the size of the ventilation units on top of manufactured campers. Too large for my tastes. <br /></p><p>The watertight design of this ventilator meant, the unit will run during every rain storm --fresh air in-rain stays out. That's what I like.<br />
<br />
The 4" Nicro fans move 24,000 cubic feet of air a day. Should assist in providing ample air exchange, considering I always sleep with windows cracked anyway except during torrential downpours. Now if a rain storm approaches in the middle of the night, I could close windows if I had to. <br />
<br />
With my 1.5" intake located in the lower level of the camper and the fan in the upper front of camper, that arrangement should provide me with sufficient oxygen supply throughout the night.<br />
<br />I had to purchase a brand new hole saw for the install. The Nida-Core cut so beautifully it was borderline hypnotic. The new fan was mounted within minutes, thanks to the help of my lovely wife. </p><p>Grab you some help, a holesaw, some butyl tape and you'll be in business. You'll be looking like a pro. <br />
<br />
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<!--Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F-_SgU8G_pa44%2FVEkt_agPymI%2FAAAAAAAAC_g%2FOflGX1A0bF4%2Fs1600%2FP1120320.JPG&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKJvjoqAIoK2EoBlPezMlEiD1iIHnLwVXpjSeIAdbq07piGuCMARa4tLkoK3Xtst2ScD6yvUVcLIYt4RtGp5dnpM0vRbuxZXmktlkauBI5cgGnzgy0LKapT9YnTthrgP9jt9JDSzArQMw/s1600/P1120320.JPG"-->Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-77622019172194869282014-12-20T19:20:00.002-05:002022-01-15T04:52:25.766-05:00Custom, Fiberglass Slide-In Truck Camper for sale. 1/2 ton pickup...700#My custom made, fiberglass, slide-in truck camper built out of Nida-Core
composite panels <br />
is now for sale<b>.</b> <br />
<br />
This unit probably weighs somewhere in the 700 pound range, considering
sum of panel weights and resin/cloth used to build. 1/2 ton pickup
carries just fine. I have Air-Ride brand air bags installed on the rear wheels
of my 1/2 ton pickup and have no sway or any other issues when hauling. <br />
<br />
Possesses:<br />
30 amp-120 volt power inlet <br />
30 amp cable supplied (yellow colored outer sheathing) approximately 30-35' long, in great condition<br />
15amp-120 volt power inlet<br />
Water tank fill door on exterior<br />
onboard shower that runs off 120 volt shore power<br />
onboard deep cycle marine battery that serves 12 volt convenience outlet and lights<br />
pigtail to tie onboard battery to truck battery for charging onboard while in transit<br />
backup light on rear that can be activated from cab<br />
<br />
Camper shower (never used). I never have installed a water tank simply because I have not necessarily needed one.<br />
<br />
<br />
The camper is located in the eastern part of North Carolina. <br />
<br />
-<u>Update</u> The camper has sold- 2015 <br />
<br />
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~chrisUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.01929969999997629.124975099999997 -89.346448199999969 42.394171099999994 -68.692151199999984tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-82682267873195436112014-07-10T07:02:00.003-04:002019-06-20T12:46:02.735-04:00Where has the Nida-Core 3M Composite Panel Manufacturer gone to?It has recently come to my attention that Nida-Core 3M of Port Saint Lucie, Florida has been bought out by <a href="http://www.compositesworld.com/news/composite-essential-materials-revives-nida-core3ms-us-core-business" target="_blank">Composite Essential Materials</a>. I am not sure if the panels are going to continue to be made in the same plant as before, but it sounds like they are. That's the feel I got anyway.<br />
<br />
According to Composite Essential Materials, they will be opening yet a second distribution location in Elkhart, Indiana for your 'panel location' researching needs. <br />
<br />
<i>Please find the Industry News message below</i>: . <br />
<br />
<div id="contentBody">
Maritsa Dan, president of startup Composite Essential
Materials (CEM, Port Saint Lucie, Fla.), reports that CEM has taken over
the core materials business previously known as Nida-Core/3M. 3M (St.
Paul, Minn.) had acquired Nida-Core in January 2011, but subsequently
decided to exit the core-manufacturing business.<br />
<br />
Dan says that Dan Family Holdings, the owner of CEM, has agreements
with all of the previous Nida-Core suppliers, including NidaPlast
(Thiant, France), the source of Nida-Core materials for plastic
honeycombs, PGI Matline for laminating bulkers and Flexokore for balsa
products. CEM also will offer polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polyurethane
(PU) and polyethylene terephthalate (PET) foam core as well as
glass-reinforced fiberboard. In addition, CEM will be a North American
distributor of resin supplier Nord Composites (Condé Folie, France).<br />
<br />
Future plans include expansion of product offerings to honeycomb in
low-, medium- and high-densities as well as fire-retardant versions,
plus honeycomb designed for use in infusion and resin transfer molding
(RTM) processes. Resin products to come include tooling resins, skinning
material, transom putty and sprayable print-blocking core.<br />
<br />
A second
distribution site will be established in Elkhart, Ind., where CEM will
produce large pultruded panels with several options for core and
fiber-reinforced plastic surfaces.<br />
<br />
Dan says previous and new customers are welcome to call Maritsa Dan at (772) 342-4991 or e-mail <a href="mailto:mdan@composite-essentials-llc.com">mdan@composite-essentials-llc.com</a>.</div>
<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-9483931125588657352013-08-19T05:43:00.002-04:002022-01-15T04:33:25.358-05:00Weight of the Camper after it was all said and done.I had a recent inquiry to the overall dry weight of the camper. From my calculations and experience in loading the camper I would say somewhere in the ballpark of 600-700 pounds. I did not keep tabs on the weights of all inputs during the build. That would have been nice but there was enough detail to have to worry about in other realms so the calculations simply fell through the cracks.<br />
<br />
I do know that the entire collection of sheetgoods (Nida-Core) weigh in at 32 pounds per and I had 10, minus the small segments leftover that were thrown away. Would have been 11 but ended up settling for a piece of 3/4" plywood- epoxied saturated and painted- for the backwall. <br />
1) So the weight of 10 sheets of Nida Core = 320 pounds<br />
2) one piece of 3/4" plywood = 30-45 pounds<br />
3) must have at least 7 gallons of resin = 80-100 pounds<br />
4) must have at least 40-50 pounds of cloth<br />
<br />
(320) + (37.5) + (90) + (45) = <u>492</u><br />
<br />
and my guess would have been around 600-700...so somewhere in the ballpark between 500-700 pounds<br />
<br />
just right for the 1/2 ton with air bag helper springs...no issues in transit<br />
<br />
I have never had a chance just yet, to actually obtain my truck total weight on a set of scales since the camper has been added so that's the best I have to offer currently.<br />
<br />
-chrisUnknownnoreply@blogger.com2North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.01929969999997629.124975099999997 -89.346448199999969 42.394171099999994 -68.692151199999984tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-2319420689464303912013-08-18T16:56:00.001-04:002022-01-15T05:04:16.720-05:00The shower water heater and choices<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8XLQGYAnjKX40Jf4Lnr-UwN6_m3fanQPO-kR3o-ZvCKJ2wkEZwgHPUBcFTnGLy1A7actoKjI9MGAaGaKEjY6Rys3ikmoEvQxwasN514p1mUJykbG5dJrSkhQHfRXG_JP-bL6CiLMXP58/s1600/P1070626.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8XLQGYAnjKX40Jf4Lnr-UwN6_m3fanQPO-kR3o-ZvCKJ2wkEZwgHPUBcFTnGLy1A7actoKjI9MGAaGaKEjY6Rys3ikmoEvQxwasN514p1mUJykbG5dJrSkhQHfRXG_JP-bL6CiLMXP58/s320/P1070626.JPG" width="320" /></a>When it came time to choose what water heater system to use in the camper I quickly realized the shortage of choices. I would have loved to have installed an in-demand unit remotely but simply did not have the remaining monies at this point in the build. Plus, I really did not have the space to mount one anyway, after making appropriate arrangements for a larger water tank. I guess I could have mounted one on the exterior wall adjacent to the sink I suppose but the cost was the limiting factor.<br />
<br />
I had seen an 'in-use water heater shower head'<i> </i>years ago and began a search for a reputable supplier. I ended up landing on the <a href="http://www.marey.com/index.php" target="_blank">Marey Heater Corporation site</a>, this firm is located in Peurto Rico and offers the <a href="http://www.marey.com/tanklessshowerwaterheaterminimarey110v" target="_blank">120 VAC in-use water heater, shower head</a>. I was a bit concerned having such an arrangement- wet environment, powered unit in the shower- but there appears to be safeguards (insulated housing). I plan on installing a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) on this circuit. One should never have any type of electrical install that serves a wet area (sink, countertop, exterior app) without one. Matter of factly it is a National Electrical Code mandate across US....well yeah- 'national- US..duh!'--lol. A 30A GFCI circuit breaker will suffice. <br />
<br />
I understand these units are commonly used all throughout Peurto Rico, various parts of Mexico and perhaps other portions of Central America within their dwellings and commercial buildings. <br />
<br />
My plumbing was certainly not the neatest install, but functional. I have a switch for the shower head and another switch for the water pump. I can turn the power off to the shower head before I disengage the pump, thus preventing a <i>dry element</i> incident.<br />
<br />
The piece of angle the shower head is mounted to is for rigidity while in transit because the shower head is forward heavy. The surface mounted plumbing allows me to remove the unit should it ever need replacing. Was not enough room in my wall studs for the fitting arrangement and it was O'dark-30 when I was working on this, no stores open and I needed this baby in. Anyway it's not a photo booth, just an area to wash after a day of field research.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.01929969999997629.124975099999997 -89.346448199999969 42.394171099999994 -68.692151199999984tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-40287988739474360282013-08-18T16:02:00.004-04:002022-01-17T01:16:55.932-05:00Interior camper snapshots...still a work in progressI have been gone from the blog world for quite sometime. Had some extra time and thought I'd provide a walk through of the camper interior. Mind you- it is a work in progress, still needing a water tank. I had a water tank purchased already but it is a long story as to why it is not in use. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZGMmuWQIPbAvRqco8LQvUR_hk4MoUutWaunVT4axI2FfiaG6aMlarIJhfXrI3iwcAgwJTi29LOrnrb7HPPaB9S0nQkUtNxFTAWPsvhd8uF9cuvJsDbvD5aWophttXJv8CPZrF1FpSYa8/s1600/P1080535.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZGMmuWQIPbAvRqco8LQvUR_hk4MoUutWaunVT4axI2FfiaG6aMlarIJhfXrI3iwcAgwJTi29LOrnrb7HPPaB9S0nQkUtNxFTAWPsvhd8uF9cuvJsDbvD5aWophttXJv8CPZrF1FpSYa8/w640-h480/P1080535.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibrFWgkmFTe0YoSV4JGeH5NnC1k8il-Ms9MaCDvPvmUlKIuaNbcQB6Y30-IQReJSBhuvrePnj4Lj1KvBhQmTpfMLyVg7bvnfEyNUP5xcfDsJuI78aWwsoLzcnGSmQ1NHrUD1kMzStW9u8/s1600/P1080540.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibrFWgkmFTe0YoSV4JGeH5NnC1k8il-Ms9MaCDvPvmUlKIuaNbcQB6Y30-IQReJSBhuvrePnj4Lj1KvBhQmTpfMLyVg7bvnfEyNUP5xcfDsJuI78aWwsoLzcnGSmQ1NHrUD1kMzStW9u8/w640-h480/P1080540.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />after plumbing and electrical is complete will complete cabinetry underneath sink<br /><br /></td></tr>
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As you can see in the picture below there is an electrical junction box mounted between the wall studs. This box is for the 120 volt service supplying the instantaneous hot water showerhead. Above that is an 'out of the box' low voltage application (switch) which runs the 12 VDC waterpump. This allows me to turn off the waterheater electrical supply just prior to turning off the pump to ensure I do not have a dry element and ruin the showerhead. </div>
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Options are very limited in North America when it comes to 'hot water heaters for campers' unless you
want to take up a lot of space, spend a boat load of money and then whine about how much you just spent. This particular unit - <a href="http://www.marey.com/tanklessshowerwaterheaterminimarey110v" target="_blank">Marey Tankless point-of-use, water heater showerhead</a>- is not even
offered on the home range, these come from Peurto Rico. It will be served by a 30A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter breaker in the panel. <br /><br /></div>
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I know, not the most aesthetically pleasing setup, I'll be the first to shake my head in agreement with you... it's called running out of money at this point in the build. But, the contraption will serve to wash the stink off and prepare the old boy for the sack. The different colored switch covers will serve to distinguish between pump and shower element when I'm exhausted. <br />
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A peek underneath the sink shows where the incoming water line will be connected and the sink drain/vent. <br />
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if you missed the shower rough-in, <a href="http://customtruckcamper.blogspot.com/2012/11/onboard-camper-shower-rough-in-and.html" target="_blank">check that out here</a></p><p> <br />
<br /></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.01929969999997629.124975099999997 -89.346448199999969 42.394171099999994 -68.692151199999984tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-10266250255570768842013-06-26T01:12:00.002-04:002022-01-17T01:15:32.109-05:00Truck Air Springs (Air Bags) Install - Air Lift Ride Control <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0OGjgbHnlntZfwbtr0GTx2t9FBWFKHE6o7zqR4O81-HjB3g7r6Gee7qsL3vR9Cmcp-AsXuICiUdz1505k3Qd0Ay0r36UHBY4gBqj5t59YZ4SohcwwbXzGoni8C93-CRhA_dKk0HKShBc/s1600/air+lift+air+bag+springs.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0OGjgbHnlntZfwbtr0GTx2t9FBWFKHE6o7zqR4O81-HjB3g7r6Gee7qsL3vR9Cmcp-AsXuICiUdz1505k3Qd0Ay0r36UHBY4gBqj5t59YZ4SohcwwbXzGoni8C93-CRhA_dKk0HKShBc/s320/air+lift+air+bag+springs.JPG" width="305" /></a></div>
I searched a little across the web and ended up going with the decision to purchase Air Lift Ride Control Air Springs, <span style="color: red;">Air Lift 59501 Ride Control Air Bags specifically</span>, to install on my truck to aid in better handling with the camper on the truck. I have a friend of mine that has a set on his vehicle and had nothing but good things to say about the bags. He had never had a rupture or any issues with them after hauling cargo and weight continuously throughout the years So this extra push, overcame the inertia and I bit the bullet and spent the little sum of money.<br />
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I was a bit concerned with having sufficient wheel clearance between the back sides of my tires and the air bags when inflated after reading some of the reviews about the bags that are posted online. I believe most of those individuals have larger than factory type, off road tires. Although, I have a hybridized off road tire on my truck they are not as wide as some of the one's specifically geared towards offroading are. I was able to install the bags on my truck and even after inflating them still have ample space between the two. <br />
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I spent the better part of 6-8 hours one evening to take both rear truck tires off and to install the springs. Ended up calling a good friend so that I could utilize his concrete driveway to do so. Was not about to execute this feat on grass lawn. The proper mounting of the brackets come with a handy dandy little device in the kit, that allow you to properly align the two bracket halves alongside the chassis where they are to be mounted, so you can obtain location specific marks for drilling. <br />
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Then I had to drill some holes in the chassis...newly purchased, sharp HSS bit made this go smoothly.<br />
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Overall, the install was not difficult. Routed a little bit plastic air hose to the rear of vehicle (supplied in kit) where I mounted my valve stems in the bumper near the registration plate mounting area and I was in business. It only takes a small bicycle tire handpump to maintain these bags. I am able to keep them taut with only minimal air pressure. I am impressed with the ease of operation in inflating these...they really work well. <br />
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I have not had any issues with loss of air from the bags and they have been on over a year now. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN8AZxMbBMF6EYhQPVe8I30thKejXpE7YzdglQItCRzreIIcOzE2g-U20hSQNkGd3Fsr65rpgfGFoA6m2Pwm1AaRxuwzXK8hA6_9yQOhCy3-Ve0QOejZmowdZrPkQhCQCxhFFvyx7nO5M/s1600/valve+stems+for+airbags.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN8AZxMbBMF6EYhQPVe8I30thKejXpE7YzdglQItCRzreIIcOzE2g-U20hSQNkGd3Fsr65rpgfGFoA6m2Pwm1AaRxuwzXK8hA6_9yQOhCy3-Ve0QOejZmowdZrPkQhCQCxhFFvyx7nO5M/s400/valve+stems+for+airbags.JPG" width="400" /> </a></td><td style="text-align: center;"> </td><td style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">installation location of my air bag valve stems </td></tr>
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This was one of the better decisions that I made, to go with this purchase and install. Not sure what it would have driven like without these air springs but the truck drives and handles superbly with these installed. I must say I'm Impressed!<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.01929969999997629.124975099999997 -89.346448199999969 42.394171099999994 -68.692151199999984tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-91776672530389132652013-06-23T01:42:00.001-04:002022-01-17T01:14:06.069-05:00Giving Truck Grille A Paint OverhaulMy truck's grill was overdue a much needed painting, which I managed to accomplish prior to the beginning of the camper build. The last thing I wanted was to have the camper completed and on the truck, ready to go and the grill looking downcast. Well it wasn't as bad as I am implying I suppose, but it did need to be touched up some.<br />
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I used the <a href="http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1329&familyName=Pettit+EasyPoxy+Topside+Paint#pr-header-1329" target="_blank">Petit EasyPoxy Marine Grade Topside Paint </a>from Jamestown Distributors, cut a little with thinner and sprayed through a cheap high volume-low pressure, gravity fed sprayer. The paint job turned out, well almost terrific. The quality of the paint had everything to do with it, I'm certain. Self leveled and cured flat, smooth and glossy.<br />
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</div><p> You can see after sanding just how bad the grill was, those grayish areas is the underlying color composition of the plastic where the paint had depleted.</p><p>
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Some sanding and clean up with acetone, took me about 35-45 minutes approx. No, the blog isn't upside down, neither are you. 😂<br /></div>
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Petit EasyPoxy goes on, covers and cures.. i'm super pleased.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.01929969999997629.124975099999997 -89.346448199999969 42.394171099999994 -68.692151199999984tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-50959757133756067022013-06-23T00:29:00.005-04:002022-01-17T01:12:33.646-05:00Camper Tie Down Attachment Point UPDATEThe camper has been on the truck for some time now and seen quite a bit of road miles across a varied topography and been in positions that have undoubtedly placed stress and strain on the attachment points. I am glad to say that the design behind the<span style="color: red;"><span style="background-color: white;"> <a href="http://customtruckcamper.blogspot.com/2012/07/creating-reinforcement-understructure.html" target="_blank">structural compound filled pockets</a> </span></span>lapped over and beneath with 1708 biaxial cloth have created a structurally sound connect. You can see the <a href="http://customtruckcamper.blogspot.com/2012/07/creating-reinforcement-understructure.html" target="_blank">initial design and construction here </a> and the reinforcement of the system with <a href="http://customtruckcamper.blogspot.com/2012/09/sidewalls-are-complete.html" target="_blank">1708 biaxial cloth overlay here</a>.<br />
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The eyebolts purchased from McMaster are serving me well. After several months, a check of all the attachment points are seemingly doing fine.<br />
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The <a href="http://customtruckcamper.blogspot.com/2012/07/camper-tie-down-system-happijac-tie.html" target="_blank">HappiJac camper tie downs</a> mounted on the truck cab are doing well although they are digging into the truck bed some, thus cracking the paint job and deforming the metal ever so slightly. The deformation is minor at this point. I did not install a torsion bar between the bed mounted tie downs. Being my truck is an older model, I'm not overly concerned. However, if I had a newer model truck I suppose installing the torsion bar in conjunction with the plates might have been a good idea. The torsion bar is supposed to prevent that 'digging in' from occurring. Mind you...'my camper is even lighter than all commercial units', so I would certainly use the torsion bar tie-in if I were carrying one of those manufactured units in my truck bed.<br />
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Those <a href="http://customtruckcamper.blogspot.com/2012/07/received-happijac-system-turnbuckles.html" target="_blank">Stainless Steel HappiJac Turnbuckles </a>are everything individuals claimed them to be and a little more. They are extra durabable and have not given me any problems, they stay tight and the inner springs work as the manufacturer claimed. You can occasionally hear the spring as it is being compressed and relaxed, in select topographies. No bother to me...means it working. Load your back and you just might croak every now and again as well 😂
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1/4" thick fender washers underneath and 5/16" thick flat iron plates sit on top of the reinforced area in the interior. </div>
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Months of driving and no movement, the reinforced fiberglass area is holding up as planned. To see the <a href="http://customtruckcamper.blogspot.com/2012/07/fiberglass-structural-peanut-butter.html" target="_blank">structural fiberglass mixture recipe</a> which was used to reinforce this region for the bolt-throughs. The pockets were cut and filled, wrapped in 7-8 ounce cloth, layered with 1708 biaxial cloth on top (both on exterior and interior), both interior and exterior recieved a little more lamination as corners of panels were lain (as seen in photo above)...you can see the wrap. Eyebolts protrude through a 5/16" thick plate on the interior, another 1/4" thick structure washer and possess two nuts.<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.01929969999997629.124975099999997 -89.346448199999969 42.394171099999994 -68.692151199999984tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-77957245989225418342013-06-22T23:50:00.001-04:002022-01-17T01:04:36.282-05:00Camper Brake / Turn / Clearance Lights...the thoughts concerning laws and the installInstalled some basic red lens combination lights on the camper rear. The 12VDC lights that I bought were purchased from Agri-Supply and made primarily for metal fleeced trailer walls. Thus, had to install a grounding wire to the fixture prior to mounting in my walls to complete the circuit. Had already ran my wires from the truck's brake/turn/run into the rear wall region. <br />
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You can see that portion of the electrical rough-in<a href="http://customtruckcamper.blogspot.com/2013/04/interior-electrical-system-rough-in.html" target="_blank"> here.</a><br />
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Prior to mounting the camper I drilled a 1" hole in this tailgate channel stop to accept a 7-pin female 12VDC receptacle. Spliced into the wires feeding the left rear brake light to pick up the circuit. Also, robbed two of the pins inside the receptacle to serve as a feed and a switchleg from a switch up in the cab which would operate a brighter backup light on the back wall of the camper. </div>
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I mounted a agricultural harvester light with a trapezoidal pattern that would allow me to see the light in both side view mirrors. Mounted it a little high to distribute the pattern well and it works pretty good. Not sure if a flood would have worked better but it does provide ample light when backing up in dark spaces. Also have it switched inside the camper as well, in case I were to ever hear a rustle at night near the door. </div>
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I understand Federal Transportation Laws mandate brake/turn/running lights on tractor trailers, dump trucks, anything with a fixed bed or box of the sort has to have lights arranged to signify the width and height of said box. That having been said, slide-in truck campers are a special animal. From what I can gather from the laws, they are considered 'truck cargo' and thus do not meet that criteria. Furthermore, noticing that most of the manufactured units have their brake lights mounted much lower than mine and some do not even have any at all, I thought I would be kosher in the arrangement chosen. <br />
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It seemed that some of the manufactured units had upper brake light strips in combination with another pair of lights but most did not. My original plans were to have a 2.5 foot strip centered at the top in conjunction with the these 6" round lights. I had even purchased the strip but after the door was installed and the "much needed" rain gutter....something had to give. --> it was the light. <br />
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I considered height of install in respect to the 'seated approaching motorist' and wanted them in the plane of sight. These lights are about the same height above ground as the cab brake lights found on all modern pickups and I mounted them just above the vertical plane of my truck lights.<br />
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The closer proximity of the light arrangements are far enough apart to be seen as separate at 200-300' but close enough to grab one's attention.<br />
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The install didn't turn out half bad. I'm pleased with the overall setup, although I wish I could have had somewhere to mount the upper brake light strip. It would've been cool.</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.01929969999997629.124975099999997 -89.346448199999969 42.394171099999994 -68.692151199999984tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-67398985320129868362013-06-22T13:26:00.002-04:002022-01-17T00:59:20.307-05:00Smittybilt Beaver Tail Step purchased for ease of access As I was looking and prodding for a select step for entrance into the camper, I quickly discovered that the tubular types are marketed all over the internet. Wanting something safer than tubular, I kept looking until I landed upon the Smittybilt product line. They make a step called the <a href="http://www.quadratec.com/products/92002_0100.htm" target="_blank">Beaver Tail</a> that is absolutely bullet proof in its composition, design and weld quality. Not to mention, a flat stepping surface area as opposed to tubular. <br />
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The step weighs a hefty amount as it is all solid metal, no hollow stuff here....just solid metal. Its designed to serve a two fold purpose; a step and an attachment point for vehicle retrievals. Used extensively with those sporting offroaders that need to pull one another out of tight spots and continue onward.<br />
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When I say it is hefty and durable, they are understatements...this is a great step folks, really it is. One of those few items that you buy 'once' and it stays intact the remainder of <u>your</u> days. Heck, may even end up on your child's vehicle. They are just that tough. After dealing with the vast array of cheaply designed product on the market today, I must say "I was overly impressed."<br />
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The only slightly negative feedback I have against the step is the powder coated finish does not have much texture to it thus making it slick and hazardous when wet out. I ended up purchasing some step traction tape off of ebay, cut into strips and installed on my step. Made all the difference in the world. My wife's complaint was, "Why I didn't take my time to cut and install the tape in a more fashionable manner".....i admit it...i was rushing.</div>
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The step is perfect for slide-in truck campers, the surface area is just right allowing both feet to firmly planted at the same time if need be. Also, built proportional to most full size truck bumpers.</div>
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Here you can see the distance the step protrudes from the hitch when mounted. Overall I am pleased with the <a href="http://www.smittybilt.com/product/index/182.htm" target="_blank">Smittybilt Beaver Tail Step</a> </div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.01929969999997635.7595731 -79.019299699999976 35.7595731 -79.019299699999976tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-15667107870912800642013-06-22T12:54:00.001-04:002022-01-17T00:56:51.924-05:00Rain Gutter Install Over DoorBought a piece of aluminum channel from McMaster to install over entrance door to divert roof waters. Was a little bit of a challenge getting it fastened due to the width of the channel preventing easy access for tools, but I managed to do so. Just took me a while.<br />
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What seemingly appeared to be a 20-30 minute install turned into a much lengthier one.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">revealing the tight clearance above door that I desired</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Performs well, even in severe rainstorms.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.01929969999997629.124975099999997 -89.346448199999969 42.394171099999994 -68.692151199999984tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-27410695634732611472013-04-08T00:50:00.002-04:002022-01-17T00:56:23.732-05:00Design and building of Entrance DoorI looked high and low for available camper entrance doors for sale but could not find an affordable choice for purchase during that time. Furthermore, I simply did not have necessary time to search the countryside in an effort to locate a more reasonably priced version. So, I simply decided to make my own entrance door. <br /><br />
I took a piece of 3/4" good grade plywood and coated the exterior side really well with 2-3 coats of thin set epoxy which cured a waterproof exterior shell on the sheet. Placed a piece of Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (FRP) on the exterior of the door. Then made my sealing flanges for the door out of 4" wide fiberglass cloth, that after cure, would be mounted to the outward edge of my door. It worked fairly well. Not the 'most professional looking and certainly not the most aesthetically pleasing' one you have ever seen but it does the job for now. <br />
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Thin fiberboard strips cut to appropriate size and wrapped in wax paper to allow me to drape wet fiberglass cloth over the ledges. The idea was that the wax paper would prevent the polyester resin from bonding to the fiberboard and the 1/4" variation in height would create an offset in the cloth thereby creating a 1/4" area to accept weatherstripping so door would shut tight and seal out rain. <br />
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Mounting piano hinge and outward edge flanges.<br />
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Roll out caulk placed upon hinge line and then hinge fastened.<br />
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Door installed and interior insulated.</div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.01929969999997629.123794099999998 -89.346448199999969 42.3953521 -68.692151199999984tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-41079398250732801122013-04-08T00:33:00.001-04:002022-01-17T00:55:38.175-05:00Interior Electrical System Rough-InAs you might have discovered this posting is somewhat out of order considering there are earlier posts showing the camper already sitting on my truck, which is true. The interior has been completed in regards to paint, shower, wiring...all I need now is the fresh water tank. So, yes it is sitting on the truck with interior complete for the most part. <br />
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This part of the build was just not uploaded within the appropriate timeframe, that's all. little behind guys!<br />
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The interior work came at a time when I was extremely busy with other business ventures. Lots of the construction occurred within crunches 'for time' thus I simply snapped away with the photos and did not have the time to upload and blog during that busy time. So here we are now!<br />
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As you recall from the earlier phases of construction, the entire camper is Nida Core honeycomb panels except for the rear wall. (the reason why? i chose wood)<br />
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I insulated the rear wall with residential construction foam approximately 1" thick which will be wrapped with some form of paneling on the interior.<br />
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Black SJ cord fastened in place is a 5-6', 6 conductor pigtail plugged into 6 port receptacle feeding parking lights, left turn, right turn and brakes. The fifth and sixth contact was chosen out of the receptacle to feed my rear backup light which is operated from a switch in the truck cab.<br />
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Placed horizontal strips of wooden reinforcement in this region where one's back would rest when sitting on the bench, to prevent bowing and damage to the thin wall paneling.<br />
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Insulation going up in wall region where shower stall will be installed, notice the sloped seat in this region. The seat was sloped to allow for water drainage when taking showers.<br />
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Insulation in place in door before interior panel side was installed. Also can see some of the incipient stages of inlet power installation going on in the background.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.01929969999997629.123794099999998 -89.346448199999969 42.3953521 -68.692151199999984tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-6311436396673298872013-03-25T22:08:00.001-04:002022-01-17T00:54:30.631-05:0012 volt DC System and Onboard Battery Recharge System<p>I wanted a 12 VDC system for the camper that could be recharged and 'topped off' as I was in transit. I not only wanted to recharge the onboard camper battery with the truck alternator but also wanted to be able to start my truck with this battery, should my truck camper ever be found dead. The latter of which meant a significant wire guage would be needed. </p><p>
Well as you know....copper is a prized possession. I needed at least a #2 gauge for the potential 200 amp starter draw and the wire needed to be multi-stranded so it would be flexible. Purchased a 20 foot set of #2 AWG heavy duty jumper cables and chopped off the gator clips. The extra fine strands will allow for the ease of routing the cable on the truck frame.<br />
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Purchased some <a href="http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/powerpole-sets/sb175-sb-series-175-amp.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">200 amp Anderson Power Poles</span></a> to use for connection means, a rather nifty crimping tool that can be used with a hammer and I was in business. Wowsers are those crimping tool pliers expensive...this little nifty crimping tool I picked up from Amazon instead, fit the bill. I was impressed with the overall strength of this tool considering I paid under $20 for it and those wire crimping pliers are at 'the least' $200.00. By the way, I searched high and low and this tool seems to be the only one of its kind living out there.<br />
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Made very strong connections..Impressed! <br />
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Cord end for the truck is ready, now need to make the shorter pigtail for the camper.</div>
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The longer cord was run from the truck battery with the shorter pigtail mounted on the camper itself. I ran the longer pigtail along the truck frame towards the rear of the truck and mounted the powerpole connector to the cross member, to serve as a quick-disconnect region, for when camper is loaded and off-loaded.<br />
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A #12 gauge wire was run alongside which was 'fed' from camper battery, serving a switch in cab that I can use to energize the coil of the battery isolator located underneath the hood.<br />
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I mounted a Stinger, 200 amp water-tight battery isolator in the engine compartment. I installed a 200 amp ANL fuse and fuseblock to protect the length of wire and ultimately the camper battery from ground faults and short circuits or from overloads if using to start 'third party' vehicles.<br />
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The shorter leads used in this connection were just battery leads purchased from a local automotive store. The isolator is controlled from switch in cab fed from camper battery.<br />
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I had to purchase side-post battery bolts w/ extensions in order to make accommodation for the new circuit additions. The Raptor brand are a nice choice as they are available in both short and long lengths and vehicle make/model specific to fit your battery. The longer extension bolts were perfect for the two positive, stacked OEM cables on the positive side of the battery. I was pleased with the overall quality and durability of the Raptor brand. Plus they are corrosion resistant or proof perhaps. I found these on Amazon.</div>
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The longer bolt was purchased for use on the positive side of the battery, to accommodate the two, stacked OEM cable terminals; the install was painless. As far as the extension portion goes, that section is plenty long as well...have room for future use built-in. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiScd7SpCx0d5yQHqAR9oEJmNbCxyByvBKsRDOp0kZdRe0HcLEeQe2nobLS4lUJd6PssehZ1dWms4zzLNvK_PhnQYxdl5d6omtuOVzrP88gSvTka09pS32pwOBcbg0c6BQJxAA_e-uFcs/s1600/positive+battery+post+extensions.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiScd7SpCx0d5yQHqAR9oEJmNbCxyByvBKsRDOp0kZdRe0HcLEeQe2nobLS4lUJd6PssehZ1dWms4zzLNvK_PhnQYxdl5d6omtuOVzrP88gSvTka09pS32pwOBcbg0c6BQJxAA_e-uFcs/w640-h480/positive+battery+post+extensions.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Notice how nicely the two (red) OEM battery terminal ends stack on one another along this new bolt, thus providing good continuity. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwuu98Suqm0KBxcrnB_YHsqwruthRf82ywvIS8mpnTU1U2C7HZz1u4UxGkiG1calKvcRU7Vb9fzXJqKLJqm6qZZXOiG6h4LmKnRQQB0vNE-ZFLp1HsQdpHJeArowPAFS_YBe2d0i4K1dk/s1600/Raptor+GBPA1S+Positive+Battery+Extender+with+Nut.+Long+type.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwuu98Suqm0KBxcrnB_YHsqwruthRf82ywvIS8mpnTU1U2C7HZz1u4UxGkiG1calKvcRU7Vb9fzXJqKLJqm6qZZXOiG6h4LmKnRQQB0vNE-ZFLp1HsQdpHJeArowPAFS_YBe2d0i4K1dk/w640-h480/Raptor+GBPA1S+Positive+Battery+Extender+with+Nut.+Long+type.JPG" width="640" /> </a></div>
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The short bolt lengths were used on this end of the battery where I only had to mount one factory OEM battery cable. The OEM cable terminals slide over the bolts and fit snugly along a portion of the bolt allocated for them. I could not hardly believe that these bolts actually fit perfect, both different lengths and for different sides, but model specific had everything in the world to do with it....Hooray for Raptor!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCpnEfb3qoP66ZKdEUoi_bM9h80DD1J5_zix6CMepO7Mh8bAxe21P6gdLI8ADRiHq-whIZyWebYxGQ7IIJc6VEewgs2tYo0BTfBi4Xw2GdPNUwTbYwnl25KAzP12JThJzlZK3LwugwB8c/s1600/negative+side+battery+extension+bolt+termination.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCpnEfb3qoP66ZKdEUoi_bM9h80DD1J5_zix6CMepO7Mh8bAxe21P6gdLI8ADRiHq-whIZyWebYxGQ7IIJc6VEewgs2tYo0BTfBi4Xw2GdPNUwTbYwnl25KAzP12JThJzlZK3LwugwB8c/w640-h480/negative+side+battery+extension+bolt+termination.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Showing both battery side-post extension bolts in place and with circuits connected.</div>
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Shorter pigtail from camper was dropped down between cab and truck bed to make the needed connection. I used a 1.25" or either 1.5" LB PVC conduit body as a means of entrance through the 1.25" Nida-Core panels. I was able to pop-rivet the side of the conduit body to the fiberglass skin. The protruding 1" portion of the LB protected the cable insulation from scrubbing the raw fiberglass hole. I filled the LB up with electrician's non-hardening duct seal.</div>
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Cable was routed through LB and then into the battery compartment box. Used duct seal here also in order to prevent noxious vapors from entering camper. (<a href="http://customtruckcamper.blogspot.com/2012/12/onboard-battery-compartment-box.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">See construction of battery compartment box</span></a>)<br />
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Mounted a battery tray by pop-riveting it to the fiberglass panel.<br />
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Connections were made <br />
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To see the creation of the battery compartment box visit<a href="http://customtruckcamper.blogspot.com/2012/12/onboard-battery-compartment-box.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;"> here </span></a><br />
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see you around, chrisUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.01929969999997629.123794099999998 -89.346448199999969 42.3953521 -68.692151199999984tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-29368339869597377712013-01-24T23:39:00.003-05:002022-01-17T00:45:59.161-05:00Camper meets truck<p>Finally after several months-- camper meets truck. </p><p>Everything went fairly well with the help of a friend.
A while back, I had looked both 'high and low' for a set of the manufactured camper jacks, all to no avail. It was not that I was unable to find any. Oh NO! I found tons of new sets with a standard retail price for three camper jacks ranging anywhere from $400-$500.00(+). I just could not come to grips with that cost. They're sold in a set of three. <br />
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Well thank God, after further searching and asking around online I met a guy that had an older set that he sold me for a 'GREAT' price. Not only did I obtain a reasonably priced set of camper jacks but ended up gaining a great friend as well. Thank God for the cool tool we call the internet.<br />
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Anyway, with the help of a friend we managed to elevate the camper enough in order to stack 3-8x16" concrete blocks underneath every corner. From here we progressed to the camper jacks - triangulation method - 1 on one side and 2 on the other. Advancing carefully and with ease we had the camper sitting in the bed of the pickup truck in a very short amount of time.<br />
<br />I will need to eventually build me some form of offloading structure which would serve to hold the camper high enough to allow the lowered camper jacks to be placed underneath the camper for the next install. Haven't gotten there yet but this baby is in the truck bed for now and I couldn't be more pleased.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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See you on the inside Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.01929969999997629.123794099999998 -89.346448199999969 42.3953521 -68.692151199999984tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-75376491706596618942013-01-06T01:01:00.002-05:002022-01-17T00:41:46.180-05:00Air bag helper springs installationI purchased a set of 'Ride Control' air bags manufactured by Air Lift to assist with maintaining a level ride and to accommodate the extra weight of the camper. Although the dry weight of my camper minus amenities is approximately 380 pounds, by the time a battery, onboard water tank and other goodies are added, these air bags will be needed I am certain. If not so much needed for the camper weight, I could surely use them when camper is consolidated with boat in tow. You did not think I was going camping without doing some fishing now did you? <br />
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Ride Control, Model number 59501<br />
by: Air Lift<br />
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The installation required a level, concrete working surface to ensure after rear tires were removed I could maintain the proper ride height of axle to frame as if the tires were still in place. Required measuring center of hub of wheel to wheel well before and after tire removal. Set jack-stands accordingly to maintain this measurement. The install was straightforward, somewhat time consuming. The projected installation time from the manufacturer was 2 hours...Well it took me about 5 hours. It was not that the installation was difficult, just required a number of little things which needed to be done. Manufacture techs must have installed their initial system on a naked frame with no body, no tires, no fuel tank or anything else for that matter to gain a 2 hour install. These projections never cease to amaze me.<br />
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Well, the system is in place. I do not have a performance review on the air retention of the bags and the way the vehicle will function under load while bags are inflated, I can say that I am pleased with the overall system thus far. I will provide updates on that performance later.<br />
<br />I ran my air input stems to the rear bumper where they were installed near the license plate and the air bags can be maintained with a simple, small bicycle hand pump.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.01929969999997629.123794099999998 -89.346448199999969 42.3953521 -68.692151199999984tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-58815429550863404072013-01-02T02:29:00.003-05:002022-01-17T00:37:56.363-05:00Painting Interior of camperRecently applied one coat of Marine Grade, White, Petit Easypoxy paint to the interior of the camper. I will be completing the painting a little later on after shower walls are up and the storage box is mounted in place. The storage box will be mounted where the non-painted section is below the sleep loft. Talk about a bright interior...seemed too bright. I received the wife's thoughts and we collectively came to the conclusion it may not be too bad after the windows are cut-in, shower wall and curtain are added as well as the coverings for the mattress foam. All of these integrations will tone the brightness down a touch. I hope.<br />
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Basically used the remaining half gallon left over from the exterior. <br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-79912881865484066962013-01-02T02:21:00.001-05:002022-01-17T00:36:52.794-05:00Working on Entrance Door, creating ownI have decided after much deliberation just to create my own entrance door for the camper. I had looked for months to find one that would fit the camper, that did not have windows, which was narrow enough to use for my required opening and one which the seller did not desire a small fortune for. I found neither. This door scene has been the absolute most stressful and highly irritating facet of the entire build. I can't understand the logic behind the costs of those camper doors.<br />
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So, I decided to pickup a piece of 3/4" plywood, a sheet of Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic and some contact cement. Stay away from the waterbased Contact Cement if you can; complete waste of money. I lost on another project by ruining a glue-up by choosing to use the water based Contact Cement. It simply did not work. <br />
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The door was cut to fit my necessary opening and the Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (FRP) sheet was cut with aviation snips and glued. The aviation snips work well on this stuff by the way, no splintering or splitting of the sheet while cutting.<br />
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I will be making fiberglass edging that will be mounted to the exterior of the door's edges. This will serve to seal out the weather hopefully by compressing weatherstrip bulbing to be applied a little later on. I plan on creating an internal jamb with weather stripping as well. It is really difficult to locate the appropriate J-channel on the internet that will fit that is not 'gold'...really overrated the purpose it serves.<br />
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I may end up having to retrofit or replace the door with a better invention but for now this will have to work.<br />
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In order to make the fiberglass edging, I fastened fiberboard strips on the rear of the door. I covered both the rear of door and these strips in wax
paper so the polyester resin would not bond to either. This setup will be
used to lay five layers of fiberglass cloth upon to create my door's
exterior edging. The raised thickness of the high density fiberboard will serve
to create an offset in the cured layers which will serve to accommodate the compression of 'bulb' type weatherstripping. Did that just make sense? LOL <br />
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Door has been hung now and these strips have been installed along the outside edges, which will serve as a means to keep out wind and rain. <br />
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Door is hung, however not complete, has been insulated on the interior and now awaiting paneling. </div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.01929969999997629.123794099999998 -89.346448199999969 42.3953521 -68.692151199999984tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-85421538650929539822012-12-28T19:57:00.001-05:002022-01-17T00:30:09.508-05:00Exterior PaintedAs many of you know, which have been following, the weather here in eastern North Carolina right now is a touch on the cool side for ideal working temps of polyester resins, epoxy resins and for painting. I have managed however to work around the elements gain some progress. <br />
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A couple of days ago, the day time temps rose to 56-62 for a couple of days but the evening and nighttime hours were really getting cool (cold). The camper exterior had been primed a few weeks prior with the Petit Undercoater. I began painting the exterior at about 11 am because I needed at least 5 hours of 50 degree temps for the paint to cure properly. At around, 545-600 pm, I heated up the inside of the makeshift workspace I have for the camper build with a propane, forced air blower heater. I must say I was pleased with this type of space heater's performance, kept the workspace temp approximately 50-55 degrees until the paint completely dried around 11pm. <br />
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I painted the camper with Marine Grade, Petit Easypoxy - white, using a short nap 3/16" Mohair roller cover. Past experience of working with this type of paint provided me with some ease. I knew if the can of paint was approximately room temperature (68-72 degrees) and if I allowed the camper surface to warm up to the touch prior to painting then the air bubbles introduced through roller application would work themselves out. The brush 'tipping' did not even have to be used in order for me to obtain a professional looking "orange peel" effect. Those air bubbles all worked themselves out perfectly. I was pleased with the end result. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">On to the door next<br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.01929969999997629.123794099999998 -89.346448199999969 42.3953521 -68.692151199999984tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-32683752559106362742012-12-08T23:49:00.001-05:002022-01-17T00:27:40.659-05:00Onboard battery compartment boxBuilding a battery compartment box that will hold one of those heavier marine grade deep cycle batteries. Will be a vented space to ensure Ol Harrell boy makes it out of nightly rests alive. I have more posts I'd like to share with you all. Built to accommodate the battery and incoming and outgoing cables and for connection accessibility. <br /> <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cutout for the battery compartment</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ybYfzDhOUxZnyrPxXYby-HAa2Dvra2Bvn69yBhRw6IFd0LGl5DYA9rPuyzx3wZ7R3ic8UJGzFaH3eK-WiYk07V502-mTixd25HXKUup_i2vx0nyYOIgsYj_j8Dlc52X5DAip5AjY-fw/s1600/camper+battery+box.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ybYfzDhOUxZnyrPxXYby-HAa2Dvra2Bvn69yBhRw6IFd0LGl5DYA9rPuyzx3wZ7R3ic8UJGzFaH3eK-WiYk07V502-mTixd25HXKUup_i2vx0nyYOIgsYj_j8Dlc52X5DAip5AjY-fw/w640-h480/camper+battery+box.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Battery Compartment storage box</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> <br />Now that the box has been built and glassed, time to install. I laid out for the hinge location and will be removing some of the polypropylene honeycomb to create a cavity that will accommodate <a href="http://customtruckcamper.blogspot.com/2012/07/fiberglass-structural-peanut-butter.html" target="_blank">fiberglass structural compound </a>to be poured into. When cured out and hardened, it will readily accept drilling and provide structural support to hold fasteners. <br /><br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0TW83InznGoYeQJdNgmIUgMwj57NoCFGKaGO4qVm7gfnVQ-3IFHx51WdjKhhNPRKlosys_qts3wDCUqHj3UK2PHqgOYvxAM81R8INVBZvGAOsNVsmilM7_RTjb-vi4bTH8Lu2aD7Wx1M/s1600/P1070560.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0TW83InznGoYeQJdNgmIUgMwj57NoCFGKaGO4qVm7gfnVQ-3IFHx51WdjKhhNPRKlosys_qts3wDCUqHj3UK2PHqgOYvxAM81R8INVBZvGAOsNVsmilM7_RTjb-vi4bTH8Lu2aD7Wx1M/w640-h480/P1070560.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Laying out for hinge and bolt locations</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">chisel out comb to accommodate compound mixture</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh_-uJSZRrD3zHacbTDdnXNTYu3MQdZPYKrX9nQwnVgU2OvUio7y02tgVX8aLDdcFItbZkMr-q739tS_miqOG324yKig7StlOrYZCyA3F4S3EUV3mvqH7LttxfYJEcWRiFv2NJNwI6r2k/s1600/P1070558.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh_-uJSZRrD3zHacbTDdnXNTYu3MQdZPYKrX9nQwnVgU2OvUio7y02tgVX8aLDdcFItbZkMr-q739tS_miqOG324yKig7StlOrYZCyA3F4S3EUV3mvqH7LttxfYJEcWRiFv2NJNwI6r2k/w640-h480/P1070558.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Removed comb down to approximately 1-1.25" deep, then scraped the bonding agent off the fiberglass skin. The bonding agent (green liner) is an agent that allows bonding of the glass skin to the polypropylene comb during manufacture. Removing this, will allow bonding of the compound that i will pour into this cavity, to bond to the fiberglass. </div>
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Removed enough comb to create a cavity conducive for accepting enough compound to structurally support 4 fasteners. </div>
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You can see that I added quite a bit of 1/4" fiberglass strands to the mixture, a good glass to resin ratio is imperative to prevent brittleness and cracking. Also contains 1/32" milled fibers (are homogenous in mixture), and cabosil. Preparing to apply glass cloth over this region and also the raw edges of this cutout.</div>
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Ok now the battery box has been installed. Needing to glass cloth over the corners after the fill-in cures and is ground accordingly. Turned out to be very sturdy after glassing the box in. The protruding box sidewalls which protrude below the bottom of the box (see second photo from top) serve as support legs. <br /><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">now all sanded and prepped for primer</td></tr>
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** update**<br />
The camper has been painted and the battery box has been completed. Not the most aesthetically pleasing but it should work for me. Upper and lower vents installed to ensure hazardous vapors can find a means of egress. Please don't judge...with every facet of this camper, please keep in mind that I was having to get this built and on the truck. It is needed as my home while away at college. I need it built and need it now. <br /><br />
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The compartment door was crafted from a piece of 3/4" plywood and covered in a coating of clear epoxy. Painted with marine grade Petit-EasyPoxy. It should fight off water and be here for a while. Mounted an aluminum hinge and pop riveted a battery tray onto the fiberglass skin...should be in business</div>
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Hopefully no shifting in transit.</div>
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little reinforcement strip out of aluminum to ensure the door latch, does indeed stay latched. <br /><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.019299732.4620451 -84.0730107 39.0571011 -73.965588700000012tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-41098615917287144052012-12-08T23:40:00.002-05:002022-01-17T00:19:10.011-05:00Priming the camper for painting...looking good!Been priming the exterior of the camper preparing the shell for the Petit EasyPoxy paint. Using the Petit EasyPoxy undercoater primer first then will apply Petit EasyPoxy with a roller. Decided against spraying with air gun and will settle for a roller application. The close nap roller will leave the 'orange peel' effect which I have no issues with. I have painted a few other things with this paint and have always been super pleased with the results. This paint is some really good quality paint. <br />
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The 'orange peel' effect created by the roller hides the imperfections better than a flat paint facing from a spray gun. Plus, cleanup takes significantly less time as opposed to lengthy cleanup times associated with air paint guns. <br />
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One coat of undercoater primer (white) looks really good. I purchased my <a href="http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1329&familyName=Pettit+EasyPoxy+Topside+Paint" target="_blank">Petit EasyPoxy Marine Grade Topside paint</a> from Jamestown Distributors. <br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.019299732.4620451 -84.0730107 39.0571011 -73.965588700000012tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-115147837281224102012-11-27T18:11:00.001-05:002022-01-17T00:17:34.362-05:00Onboard Camper Shower (rough-in and construction)After a little planning and measuring I have decided on the shower construct. The plan is that I can sit on the seat while washing and if need be, stand up to rinse. This will enable me to use less floor space. There is just more elbow room when sitting. It will all come together, at least it has in my mind's eye. 😂<br />
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1-1/2" PVC rough-in partially complete, will catch both the sink and this shower, the drain vent will be located underneath the sink area. The shower flooring will be laid on a slope on both sides leading to the floor drain. <br />
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Ran out of enough scrap long enough to complete this entire fill in, so I must piece the flooring together. No worries...fiberglass cloth tape. I left about 1" lip on the vertical panel above the floor to prevent runout of water. </div>
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Did you ever see the high tech manner I used to design the ceiling height and spacing needed inside the shower space. Check out that <a href="http://customtruckcamper.blogspot.com/2012/06/brainstorming-and-designing-for-camper.html" target="_blank">high-tech shower design method</a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.019299732.4620451 -84.0730107 39.0571011 -73.965588700000012tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-25546552451499457132012-11-17T01:54:00.001-05:002022-01-17T00:10:43.718-05:00Backwall Install (complete)My rear wall on the camper is a piece of 3/4" plywood with the exterior side of the plywood having been coated with three coats of 635 Thin Epoxy, medium set. This waterproofing also creates excellent bonding when the cloth corners are being lain.<br />
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If you have read some of my earlier posts by chance, you have discovered the reason I chose to use the plywood rear wall was primarily due to a panel shortage on the panel purchase order. To purchase one more panel would have cost me $300 + shipping, plywood is $36.00. Plus the plywood will provide the necessary structural facet needed to accept fasteners for the door hinge, striker plate and bolt, bike rack on exterior. Furthermore, since the rear wall is plywood, I can simply tack on some 1" firring strips which will act as studs to aid in hiding electrical wires behind paneling on the interior. <br />
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Also, i can easily mount other accessories on the interior of this rear wall as opposed to mounting apparatus on thin fiberglass skins. This rear wall will be painted thoroughly when I get around to that portion of the project.<br />
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<br />moving on inside of the camper to <a href="http://customtruckcamper.blogspot.com/2012/11/onboard-camper-shower-rough-in-and.html" target="_blank">rough-in the shower area next</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.019299732.4620451 -84.0730107 39.0571011 -73.965588700000012tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-855682466173166717.post-72413908388005709692012-11-14T02:24:00.002-05:002022-01-17T00:09:21.661-05:00Nose of Camper Rough-In Complete We received a warm streak in weather which was really conducive to good glassing, thereby allowing me to complete all of the camper's exterior glassing for the most part. Still have a little to do in regards to cutouts for access doors. That is minor. <br />
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So I am finished with the exterior side of glassing on the nose of the camper yet still have a little work to do on the interior portions of these joints. The interior should flow much more smoothly for I can heat the interior of the camper easily with a convection, oil filled heater to ward off the impending cold weather.<br />
<br />Part of the nose of the camper ended up being constructed with pieces of panels that were too short to meet properly in the centermost vertex. I had to piece some smaller strips into the void to fill-in the rather significant gap between the larger panels. I placed 1708 biaxial cloth where the four panels meet to contend with the potential implied forces when the camper gets to spend it's life traversing the countrysides riding in the bed of a pickup truck. <br /><br />
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Had to mix me up some structural compound (<a href="http://customtruckcamper.blogspot.com/2012/07/fiberglass-structural-peanut-butter.html" target="_blank">fiberglass structural peanut butter</a>) to cover the area at the top of the nose that also possesses fill in material. The ratio of 1/4" strands to glass should be high enough for this to remain. Some TLC in grinding and this should work out fine. </div>
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So now the basic camper shape and exterior is 'fiberglass complete'</div>
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meet you at the backwallUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0North Carolina, USA35.7595731 -79.019299732.4620451 -84.0730107 39.0571011 -73.965588700000012