Camper Roof Install

Here is the progress after the initial Camper Roof Layout.

Was able to get the sidewall-to-roof angular panels set today and 5 minute epoxied to the roof.  Used the 5 minute epoxy to hold everything in place while I work on getting the corners glassed in.  Concept similar to tack welding. 

Maintaining the appropriate angles on all four junctures and not readjusting my interior ceiling height in the meanwhile was a bit tricky.  Ratchet straps and clamps made this process easier.  I placed clamps in appropriate locations and installed a ratchet strap along both the front and rear end of the roof structure which prevented all sorts of headaches.

Of course, severe thunderstorms are in the area tonight after the roof install..."We have had weeks for you to come through here, but you decide to drop in right after I am installing the most fragile element of the camper."  Go figure.

These angled panels were having some issues.  I have got some problems with the angles not matching.  I have no more sheets to fall back on if I were to mess these two pieces up.  I do need to tweak these angles a bit which would allow for proper mating.

I filleted the interior of these junctures approximately 2/3 and taped a small section on the top to prevent panels from moving.  I will have to inspect more thoroughly tomorrow to determine the manners in which I can repair those angles without removing the top structure. This should be interesting...and more than likely frustrating. 

 In the meanwhile, construction is still underway.

- next morning -
I removed the ratchet straps assuming joint compound applied last night was thoroughly cured.  Everything was fine until I attempted to manipulate top into position.  Then catastrophe arrived on scene.

Just my life!  Always working on projects without any help.  A good pal managed to make arrangements in his day so that he could drop by for a moment to help me get the mess back into position.  How grateful I was.  Saved my day and back.  This time I will joint all corners before removing those handy dandy, ratchet straps...

- now just awaiting some aerosil and milled fibers to arrive in the mail so I can fill in cracks prior to taping -

Backwall Install (Epoxied-Over Plywood)

Had to trim the interior skin of the panels on the rear of the camper to accommodate the rear wall panel. I just cut through and removed the interior skin and polypropylene honeycomb, leaving the protruding exterior skin intact.  This would serve as a shelf to hold the plywood when installed. 

The reason I chose this manner of install was because I was concerned, had I went with 45 degree angled corner cuts on plywood sheet, that angle when mating with the fiberglass would present a sharpened edge of the sort which might work like a knife, cutting into the fiberglass and joint and thereby creating failure.  So instead of using 45-to-45 mating, I decided to go with a butt joint instead.  Squared cuts all around the plywood's perimeter and allow it to sit upon and butt up against these exterior skins. 

 

For the backwall I decided to go with a decent grade 3/4" Plywood and using 635 Thin System 3:1 Medium Epoxy from US Composites, coated the exterior of the plywood with three separate coats for waterproofing.  The epoxy application bonded really well leaving a 'built up' hardened, waterproof finish.

The small fibrous facing on this general plywood serves as more surface area for the epoxy to saturate and thus create not only better saturation, but ultimately a better cured bond across the face.

After multiple applications, the exterior of the plywood turned out really nice.  I also coated the edges to provide waterproofing along the edges also, filling up the pores to saturation. 

Should be able to sand later on and paint the backwall with the same marine paint that I will use on the entire camper.

Interior corners were filleted using 635 Thin System Epoxy as well for this wood-to-fiberglass mate.  Epoxy bonds to wood really well, polyester resin not so much so.  I have to mount many accessories upon the backwall plus a door install, so decided to go with plywood here instead of a composite panel.  

Now I just need to glass the interior and exterior corners.  I should have glassed over top of the filleting while it was still wet, but I was unsure if the epoxy was going to cure well considering my addition of quite a bit of structural filler material.  I did not want to glass over the fillet with several layers of cloth and then it not cure underneath because the filler material might have had disturbed the epoxy to hardener ratio.  That would have been a mess.

I waited until the next day and to my pleasant surprise it had cured thoroughly. Very nice!!  Now, I have the interior corners of the backwall fiberglassed with epoxy.

The rear panel has been cut and tied into the top now.

jump forward to November to see rear wall completed

Camper Roof Install Layout

As mentioned in the previous post the last two Nida Core composite honeycomb panels that I purchased were significantly cupped.  They were both cupped approximately 1.25" higher in the center than the ends.  To compensate for this lack of quality control coupled with the fact that I am behind schedule already, I simply could not await the arrival of replacements.

I cut a line across the entire width of the panel's centerline, approximately half the depth of the panel thickness using my circular saw.  This line cut on the concave side of the panel was just the ticket to relieving that tension and allowing the panel to lie flat.

I will fill in the groove with fiberglass structural peanut butter and then glass over the area with the fiberglass cloth tape.  I will now have a seam on the interior of the camper but such is life.   As with all things, everything is a trade off.  "Deal with the seam and finish the camper 6 weeks earlier", rather than awaiting the arrival of replacements.  Plus there is not anything saying that the arrivals would not be cupped as well.

I simply do not have time for that drama, so a relief cut saved the day.

Relief cut to allow cupped panel to lie flat

 

-- to be continued --

Filled in the relief cut today with structural fiberglass resin filler consisting of 1/32" Milled Fibers.  The filler was squeezed in using a veterinarian's syringe, filling the relief cut level with the fiberglass skin.  Then three layers of tape over the relief cut.

 
Hopefully in the next couple of days, I will be awarded time and good weather so I can begin on the roof install.

So here we are again, I am working on laying out for the ceiling install.  I have the interior of the ceiling height at approximately 72", that provides me with a few inches of clearance above my head which puts the topmost portion of the exterior of the camper at 73-1/2" high.

The camper height plus truck bed height was taken into consideration when developing the total height figure.  I want to be able to park my truck underneath my vehicle shelter while the camper is in the truck.  Although, I will not be able to park completely underneath the shelter, I will be able to park the front half of the truck underneath the shelter while loaded.

So I just sat the panel on top of a 6 foot ladder and added extra spacing to obtain interior ceiling height desired.  Centered panel and obtained sidewall-to-roof measurements.

 
 See backwall install.

See Camper Roof Installation

Sidewalls are complete

Finally received my last two Nida-Core panels needed to complete the camper.  I was somewhat disheartened with this order, they were both cupped significantly.  I had ordered two 'sanded' H8PP honeycomb panels. 

Both panels were cupped approximately 1.25" higher in the center.  I noticed the centers of both panels appeared to be sanded longitudinally, however the edges along the long side of each remained glossy.  It was apparent, someone boxed up rejects and sent them my way but charged me the prime price.  

I didn't argue nor did I contact the company.  All other times I would've, but I've been so deep in school work I can hardly think clearly as it is.  I didn't need anymore mental stressors, so I just rolled with the punch; they were going to be sanded anyway and half of that work had been done for me.  I guess one way of looking at it is, they thought they were getting over on me, but they actually helped me by sending panels which had the gloss sanded off 7/8ths of the panel.  Boo-yahh!!

As for the significant arch of the panels, I simply cut a relief cut across the middle of the concaved inner -- providing the relief needed for the sheet to lie flat. 

Anyway...I managed to get the sidewalls complete on both sides.

Last wall segment, clamped and allowing glass joints to cure

 

While I had some resin mixed and the weather was 'perfect' (very mild), I decided to beef up the areas a little more where the camper eye bolts will be attached.  This region had been reinforced earlier, but I began to think about Sir Issac Newton and his Third Law:
"For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction".

We've all been riding along an Interstate and played that bounce game when crossing one of their bridges.  This action could cause those plugs for the eye bolts to pop out during "....and opposite reaction."  So it was, I placed 1708 Biaxial cloth over the four anchor point plugs, which had been installed earlier to really lock in those plugs.  -(see that post)  The plugs were made with fiberglass structural peanut butter and although the plug's underside consisted of the intact, original fiberglass skin of the panel, the top area of the plug was exposed and needed a measure to keep in locked in.  Hopefully the 1708 biaxial will do just that.  Understanding many fiberglass boats use 1708 Biaxial along the midrib of boat's main stringers, hidden below the deck, which serves to stiffen and absorb the pressures a vessel is exposed to during rough waters and landings.  1708 when wet out thoroughly with resin and after cure, is some super strong fiberglass.  But it takes a lot to wet it out thoroughly, so when you're working with the 1708, make sure you have a couple of nice size containers of the resin mixed, ready for the wet out because the 1708 biaxial soaks up a lot of it. 

1708 biaxial cloth and three sections of 6 oz. cloth laid across the top of the biaxial cloth should lock that plug into place.  These patches were 9" long so that I got 'good grab' on both sides of the hole.

additional reinforcement added for eyebolt region

1708 biaxial cloth topped with three sections of 6oz. cloth

 

   should be working on roof install soon. ~chris

Second order of Nida Core Panels arrive

Finally after several weeks of waiting for (2) 30mm, sanded, Nida Core panels to arrive...they are finally here.  They arrived in the midst of a monsoon.

Great news....time to get busy again.

These came from Apdmro 3M.  Superb customer service and excellent communication.

Camper Sleep Area Construct (lower nose portion)

I had a little time recently to tackle some much needed work on the camper.  Got the lower portion of the nose glassed in, on both exterior and interior joints.  Have a couple more sections to add after the roof is in place and this section will almost be completed.

Camper nose, lower portion panels are glassed in

 

 

 

 

still awaiting arrival of those two panels...they'll get here at some point.

Where to Find Composite Panels For Your Personal Build

So tonight I managed to stumble across a compilation of links to some well known areas on the web that might be of benefit towards your build. 

These links are to composite panels and other similar type material manufacturers/dealers based in the United States that could very easily be used for the flooring, walls and the overall camper build structure.

http://amerimaxbp.com/
http://www.bellcomb.com/default.aspx
http://www.compositesworld.com/Products/New
http://www.monopan.ca/possibilities/
http://016794a.netsolhost.com/products.html
http://www.portafab.com/aluminum-honeycomb-panels.html


and of course Nida Core, the panels which i have chosen to use in my build. These can be purchased off the following website Apdmro 3M

Perhaps you might find this list beneficial.