Sunday, September 23, 2012

Sidewalls are complete

Finally received my last two Nida-Core panels needed to complete the camper.  I was somewhat disheartened with this order, they were both cupped significantly.  I had ordered two 'sanded' H8PP honeycomb panels. 

Both panels were cupped approximately 1.25" higher in the center.  I noticed the centers of both panels appeared to be sanded longitudinally, however the edges along the long side of each remained glossy.  It was apparent, someone boxed up rejects and sent them my way but charged me the prime price.  

I didn't argue nor did I contact the company.  All other times I would've, but I've been so deep in school work I can hardly think clearly as it is.  I didn't need anymore mental stressors, so I just rolled with the punch; they were going to be sanded anyway and half of that work had been done for me.  I guess one way of looking at it is, they thought they were getting over on me, but they actually helped me by sending panels which had the gloss sanded off 7/8ths of the panel.  Boo-yahh!!

As for the significant arch of the panels, I simply cut a relief cut across the middle of the concaved inner -- providing the relief needed for the sheet to lie flat. 

Anyway...I managed to get the sidewalls complete on both sides.

Last wall segment, clamped and allowing glass joints to cure
 

While I had some resin mixed and the weather was 'perfect' (very mild), I decided to beef up the areas a little more where the camper eye bolts will be attached.  This region had been reinforced earlier, but I began to think about Sir Issac Newton and his Third Law:
"For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction"
.

We've all been riding along an Interstate and played that bounce game when crossing one of their bridges.  This action could cause those plugs for the eye bolts to pop out during "....and opposite reaction."  So it was, I placed 1708 Biaxial cloth over the four anchor point plugs, which had been installed earlier to really lock in those plugs.  -(see that post)  The plugs were made with fiberglass structural peanut butter and although the plug's underside consisted of the intact, original fiberglass skin of the panel, the top area of the plug was exposed and needed a measure to keep in locked in.  Hopefully the 1708 biaxial will do just that.  Understanding many fiberglass boats use 1708 Biaxial along the midrib of boat's main stringers, hidden below the deck, which serves to stiffen and absorb the pressures a vessel is exposed to during rough waters and landings.  1708 when wet out thoroughly with resin and after cure, is some super strong fiberglass.  But it takes a lot to wet it out thoroughly, so when you're working with the 1708, make sure you have a couple of nice size containers of the resin mixed, ready for the wet out because the 1708 biaxial soaks up a lot of it. 

1708 biaxial cloth and three sections of 6 oz. cloth laid across the top of the biaxial cloth should lock that plug into place.  These patches were 9" long so that I got 'good grab' on both sides of the hole.

additional reinforcement added for eyebolt region
1708 biaxial cloth topped with three sections of 6oz. cloth


 
   should be working on roof install soon. ~chris

2 comments:

  1. Looks good - Keep us posted!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. you should check out the other entries up here on the blog, you must have came in through the backdoor because there are posts of the roof, interior and electrical on the blog now

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Chris